Red Cherry 1:1 Mix - Test Settings

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tim.yoshi
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Red Cherry 1:1 Mix - Test Settings

Post#21 » Wed Nov 26, 2014 9:49 pm

Quote from Metalcaster on November 26, 2014, 14:44
Hi Tim,
I am having the same problems with my 1.1 machine... all of a sudden bad builds. I will order the kit you specified ... looks like a good idea.
The machine does work with other material like MS material, but does not work well with B9 Cherry or Red.


Ok, so here is +1 to our bad company. Welcome :)
Any idea what could cause this?
For me too - MakerJuice resins works as usual, but B9R takes eternity to build some rings still with lack of quality on small details. I'm talking about 30-40z slice and 1:1 mix. Rings set about 30-40 mm height takes around 18-24 hours to print with stock printer settings except significantly increased cure times. But still I can't get good prongs on top of the rings. Of course calibrated projector in terms of xy plane and "hot spot". The same to build table. Few different PDMS'es, and resin from different bottles.
And that's on the freshly changed lamp - 200+ hours now on it.

Also I noticed that PDMS life with B9R now is significantly shorted, likely due to hugely increased exposure. I can see fogginess after ONE print.

I'm desperate to try even removing of UV filter, like NOEHBERN did. He now prints at 5x times faster speed!
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Metalcaster
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Red Cherry 1:1 Mix - Test Settings

Post#22 » Thu Nov 27, 2014 5:46 am

Hi Tim, I have all the same problems. at first, this was new projector with small filter in the casing still in place and large filter removed this worked fine for about 1 week. Then, the small filter in the casing cracked. This has happened on 3 other projectors before this ( small filter against the inside casing cracking). When this happens, I can only print for about 8 minutes, then I get red light of death. I then removed cracked filter and put large filter back in front of lamp. now projector works, but gets bad issues like what is happening to you.
I suspect that The small filter is very important to have in place and that the large filter is also needed.
I was getting good product when the small filter was in good shape with or without the big filter.... however, with the big filter removed, the small filter cracks within 1 or 2 weeks . The small filter seems to remove some heat from passing into the next chamber where there is a heat sensor to protect the projector. This is what causes the red light of death to come on if the small filter cracks and the big filter is removed. If you put the big filter back in place, the projector works, but not well with B9 material. Also not as perfect with other materials. So my thought is the first small filter is needed, but is not long lasting if the big filter is removed. Let me know what you think about this?

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behold3d
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Red Cherry 1:1 Mix - Test Settings

Post#23 » Thu Nov 27, 2014 5:53 am

I've had the exact same issues. I'm doing some testing on some fixes. I'm getting consistent results but some bleed. So I'm experimenting with msm, installed lamp lens, uninstalled wall lens, small fan, and slice thicknesses. So far so good. Where are you finding your replacement lenses?

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Metalcaster
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Red Cherry 1:1 Mix - Test Settings

Post#24 » Thu Nov 27, 2014 6:14 am

I had one lense left over from the first projector that went bad... this is my 4th.Same issues. What fixes have you found?I found that the extra fan needs to be on the left side of the projector. As the incoming air of the internal projector fan comes in from the left and goes out the right side. I see some people have mounted the extra fan on the right side. This is incorrect as it basically nullifies the internal fan.
right now, I have only the larger lense and that gives me not so good detail. I have played with all the settings, but the worst problem is it takes almost 5 times longer to grow things with poor results.

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Post#25 » Thu Nov 27, 2014 7:54 am

The fan is just mounted on the outside of the projector blowing in front of the lamp. It's between the two lenses. I am not getting long print times. My msm is still set to .5 so this is much faster than originally taking. I have some lenses on order to replace the others. Haven't received them yet

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Robert Howle
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Red Cherry 1:1 Mix - Test Settings

Post#26 » Thu Nov 27, 2014 10:19 am

Please post if anyone finds a fix for the problems with the 1.1 version projector. Like i said before, it's like the curing spectrum is deminished. MIne was fine untill let it set for 3 months with no use. Don't understand about the lenses. Guess i will take it apart and take a look. Can see the lenses in question by doing what, exactly? Really would like to be running both my machines (v1.1 and v1.2). I don't want to start printing with long exposure times on the 1.1. Can print 3 times on the 1.2 instead.


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Post#27 » Thu Nov 27, 2014 3:52 pm

You remove the lamp assembly from the back by opening the back, then unplug the lamp assembly and remove it. Atached to the lamp assembly is a clear filter held in place by a removable frame and some very smalll screws. That is the bigger of the two . The smaller filter is in the casing facing towards the lens. It is held in place by a metal retaining plate.

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Robert Howle
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Post#28 » Thu Nov 27, 2014 4:08 pm

Thanks for the info. Has anyone bought one of the lamps on ebay (replacements) for the D535 projector (think that is the number). I just don't know what to do because I was printing with 1:1 mix at 50 xy with short exposure times till I let is "sit" for 3 months. I'm truly baffeled since the lamp hrs are so low (200). Problem is it looks as bright as before, just not cuing layers except at long exposure times.

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tim.yoshi
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Post#29 » Thu Nov 27, 2014 9:21 pm

Ok, so did it (removed big UV filter form lamp) yesterday and tried to print with insanely lowered cure time. Guess what? It worked! Last times it was about 25-27 seconds to cure 1:1 mix and still results were not good.
Now I printed very successful at... 3 seconds. I even tend to think that was overcure! Model was sharp and crisp, but needed a lot of "hot spot" calibration (one side virtually not printed).
But left overnight second print, and it failed 15-20 minutes after start. Overtemperature - power led on projector blinking 4 times.

My solution is to cut the same size replacement for UV filter from ordinary regular glass. Right now quoting locals about it. This should prevent some extra heat from going into projector and should prevent second filter from cracking. But I love the result so much! Just imagine, from 25-27 seconds to 2-3 still with increased crispness and sharpness!
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Post#30 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 12:14 am

I'm thinking about using borafloat glass. Tim you may want to use a fan too. Also certain microscope slides have better uv transparency and temperature resistance. I believe someone told me the lamp lens has a coating on it that is applied inconsistently. This resulted in extraordinary long cure times in some cases.

Robert, did you use your 1.1 machine with the new 1.7 software before? I'm wondering if there is another contributing factor at play here too.

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mazen2014
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Post#31 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 2:58 am

Nice . I liked much faster .. i flipped my printed rings so the went ok .. so this mix castable like the RED?
ONE SHIP ONE CAPTAIN

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Post#32 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 3:21 am

It is my understanding that it is

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Robert Howle
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Post#33 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 4:02 am

I was printing with 1.7.3 software, 1:1 mix, 50 xy, 31.75 Z. All was good. The only thing different was that I went in and made the "test settings" for Mike's 1:1 test. When that did not work I went back to my settings and still nothing except two attach layers at 35 sec exposures. On the very first print after using test settings from Mike i noticed the hot spot had moved to the back of the machine when it had been centered. I did get a very bad print (thin and only left side printed of a ring. Just don't understand what has happened. I will have to go into projector and see if one of the filters has cracked or whatever. The lamp looks plenty bright. I still say it is like the curing wave lengths are greatly reduced.

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tim.yoshi
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Post#34 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 6:15 am

Well I'm pretty sure that this UV filter was filtering not only UV but also some blue. It has very light tint of yellowish which indicates it is filtering blue part of spectrum.
So I managed to print few more "hot spot" calibration sets (small pillars) with vent hose attached to projector just under the arduino. This likely solved the overheat problem.
But nevertheless I decided not to play hard and already have cut locally those UV-filter replacement glasses from regular glass. Just ordinary window-type glass with very slight blue-green tint if viewed from edges. Quick search over Internet indicated that it should allow UV down to around 300nm. That's more that enough. Also it will allow some extra protection for DLP chip from far UV. So installed it, started to calibrate and... hear cracking sound. "OMG, it break!" thought I. But observations indicated that light uniformity nor focus or anything else haven't been changed. So I decided not to disassemble it and try to print pillars. Well, that worked almost fine. I see that now it needs slightly more cure time, but not significant. Without it I was able to print all the pillars with 2.3 seconds. With replacement glass attached and some tweaking around "hot spot" position I'm able to print almost all the pillars at 2.4-2.5 seconds. So you can see that's still negligible, especially after considering that last time (with UV filter) I needed astonishing 27 seconds to print some rings at 50xy 38z with 1:1 mix.
Now I run comparably long print (haha, full rings set now prints 3.5 hours and I consider it long?! :) ) with vent hose attached. Will comment on results.
But that cracking sound when I calibrated still worries me. Maybe I will disassemble it tomorrow once again.

Let's try to think about reasons of that non uniformity of results. Ok, maybe this UV-filter has not uniform coating, but this absolutely not explains why sometimes B9R suddenly drops in power. This can't be lamp. I can't believe it. The Robert-Howle case clearly indicates that this could be dust. But why still it not affected machines which actively working? And most important where this dust collects? When I changed my lamp I blowed with very powerful blower all the insides of projector. Lamp was new, but still I was not able to print with stock settings with B9R.

So this is my thoughts to date :)
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Robert Howle
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Red Cherry 1:1 Mix - Test Settings

Post#35 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 6:26 am

Thanks Tim.

What is the color wheel and how might it affect the blue light?

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behold3d
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Post#36 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 6:29 am

Great test Tim, I want to calibrate my hot spot too. I have to hunt around on how to do that..

I wonder what temperatures we are talking about in the lamp compartment? Can we see your vent? that is interesting to me

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mazen2014
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Post#37 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 7:32 am

photos
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Post#38 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:04 am

Hi Tim. When you have some time, Could you please show us a sketch how to change the projector UV protector of the machines 1.1. My machine is requiring some time.
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tim.yoshi
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Post#39 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:42 am

As to color wheel - you could easily found it online - just google "dlp color wheel".

Regarding my current setup it is fairly easy - regular kitchen ventilation system connected to a fliexible hose. However it is not ideal - i'm planing to use bigger hose in future.
Here some photos.
Also I want to confirm that I finished my "long" print - 3.5 hours without problems. Now curing in UV oven. Overall result is good - all the pieces that should be there are there. Still need some detailed inspection.



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Image

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tim.yoshi
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Red Cherry 1:1 Mix - Test Settings

Post#40 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:43 am

Some why only one photo loaded. As usual :)
Here is new attempt
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