Prints in cherry, not in Emerald! Huh?

[Ithril]

I have a pattern I've printed several times in Cherry to get a consistent, repeatable success with the process with this particular customizable pattern.

I've had no problems printing it in cherry, but when I switched to Emerald, the details don't print reliably. I've rolled back the software version to see if it was a problem with unsupported pixels being eliminated by the new algorithms, but that did not seem to have any affect. If you enlarge the attached pic, the problem is more obvious.

Any ideas? I have a job due this weekend!

I

[mikej]

Increase your MSM a bit (.1), it looks like under exposure.

[mwm]

I'm probably very far behind the "can do with 3D printing" curve but printing you bails in place like that is brilliant.

[Ithril]

...printing you bails in place like that is brilliant.

Thanks! It did throw in an extra curve, but after a few tries, and a few casts, they now come out really well, and easy to polish too. the disadvantage is that I have to print this standing at an angle, when they would likely print more easily as a flat on the build table, and this makes a smooth finish on the final piece more difficult.

Increase your MSM a bit (.1), it looks like under exposure.

I checked with Robert Howle, and he had the same suggestion. My MSM setting was at .9, so I raised it to 1.0, but the difference was negligible.

I

[mikej]

Could also be a focus issue, if the focus is off a bit.

[Ithril]

I'm not certain I understand, Mike. In desperation to just get the job done, I drained the emerald, and refilled the vat with cherry. Presto-chango... it's printing the pendants just fine (ok, I'm only about half-way through the print, but they appear to be perfect). I know the thin detail lines I'm growing are about the limit of what can be produced with consistent success, but I would expect of the focus isn't accurate enough for Emerald, that Cherry would also exhibit problems.

I'm still learning some of the particular nuances of the fine adjustments that are available with the machine, and I'm very happy with the results. I've printed several jobs in both Cherry and Emerald now, with great delight and what I consider acceptable accuracy.
I have noticed that the focus pattern doesn't perfectly match the acrylic focus template. One side is a bit 'longer', just enough for the rings on that side to be out of sync with the template, but the projected rings are still sharp & clear. Eventually I will dig deeper into those settings and how-to videos to see what other adjustments I may not be aware of.

I

[Robert Howle]

I would check the yaw of the projector (left to right being level). Dont' worry about front to back level, that is determined by the mounting bracket.

Just a thought.

Robert Howle

[Ithril]

Unfortunately, it would appear the people who built my facility don't know what a level is. Nothing in here is level, plumb, or flush.
This worked to my advantage when a vat had a critical failure, leaking most of the resin. Fortunately, the entire unit leans slightly forward, and to the right, so it drained safely away from all the electronics and (most thankfully) away from the projector.

Aside from that, say I determine the projector is not aligned properly with the vat (or simply assuming that it is for argument sake)... How would I adjust this?

I

[Robert Howle]

Just loosen the screws on the projector plate (like when changing resolution, moving projector up and down). Set up for focus and when the grid is in place, make sure both sides of the circles and squares are in focus (left and right). I use a bubble level to check the yaw of the projector.


Did u do the calibration print with the green. This should tell u what u want to know.

Robert.

[akgold]

It really doesn't matter how level the machine is except in the beginning, as it needs to be level to be able to make sure the projector it level regarding the projection to the vat.
Once your projector has been leveled and is projecting a planer image it will always be planer and the angle or the level of the machine is no longer affecting the printed image as long as you don't change the position of the projector in relation to the vat's projection area.

so there for if the machine is off level itself the only thing it will affect is the flow of resin to and from the build area.
So with that said you have made a very good point that if there is a failure in the glass and a leak occurs then maybe it would be a plus to be unlevel in a direction that would allow any resin leak to flow away from the projector.

[Robert Howle]

I keep mine tilted slightly to the right for faster flow to the build area and in the case of a leak (never had one, knock on wood).

The only reason I mentioned the yaw of the machine is that it can cause focus issues. If one side (left or right) is out of focus then the image being projected is not planar with the vat. Just something to be aware of.

Robert Howle

[akgold]

I keep mine tilted slightly to the right for faster flow to the build area and in the case of a leak (never had one, knock on wood).

The only reason I mentioned the yaw of the machine is that it can cause focus issues. If one side (left or right) is out of focus then the image being projected is not planar with the vat. Just something to be aware of.

Robert Howle

Yep I had been pushing that test since I found out that was part of my problems with focus over a year ago.