Watch the vat recaot video in the "Support" section. There is no mention of heat curing, but when we first started recoating vats we had acrylic vat, then moved to metal and glass. With the metal and glass you could go a little hotter than with the new improved poly vats. Because of this we started posting questions relating to max temp for curing to avoid the 48 hr curing time. Mike answered with info regarding the window and the fact that temps above 170 F could damage (cause the window to distort or droop).
Before u pour in the PDMS, and after leveling, elevate the end away from the "window" about 1/2 inch. After most of the bubbles break, lower it back to level. U should not have to "push" the PDMS around.
The vat needs to be clean and dry. After many many recoats I have only had one vat with bubbles and I figured it was due to moisture or an unclean vat. I clean my vats throughly for the recoat and dry, then I remove the old PDMS, avoid touching the area to be recoated.
The bubble issue is all about clean, dry, and technique. When I move my vats to the oven (leveled glass shelf) I preheat the oven to 150 F and "cook" for 2 hrs. My oven has a convection fan to distribute heat more evenly, this avoids hot spots, especially when the bottom elements are being used. I "cook" on bake (this uses only the bottom elements. Broil uses the top elements. You may try that and check your results. Maybe start from room temp and heat from there to the 150 F.
As far as "documentation", it is in the threads with regards to the temps when oven curing. If u are going to do anything that u don't see explained in the "documentation" ask questions on the forum, there are always many willing to help based on experience.
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