Everts NuVat

[lobby]

Of course it's all there, Tajs.

Now I know exactly what to do. I should be printing by the end of the day.


Thanks!!!

[lobby]

Hmmm. Prints stuck to the NuVat.

Pure cherry, v1.2 machine, stock settings at 30 micron


I aborted the print before it attempted 5 or 6 layers. Those circles on the NuVat are pretty stuck on.



Here's the print layout.




I've successfully printed a bunch of rings using PDMS (I've used an entire bottle of cherry so far).

Have I irreparably damaged the NuVat? Any ideas how to remove those layers without damaging the layer? Any other thoughts?

[akgold]

I had this problem twice until I finally took Mike Joyce's advice and recalibrate my build table. Even though I had printed on the NuVat glass for a couple months I all of a sudden had this problem. couldn't figure out why thought it was the NuVat glass giving up on me. it wasn't it was calibration. once I recalibrate the build table and I checked the focus just in case I have continued to print on the same NuVat glass through Christmas and recently 5 prints since 1st of year.

when I had this problem both times I just carefully peeled the print on the Glass with my fingernail once I got an edge up I pulled it off slowly. no damage others have used some sort of tool and damaged the surface coating. just carefully use the finger nail and peel it up slowly.

[lobby]

Thanks!

Except for when I first got the B9 and Mike had to help me build table calibration, I haven't had any trouble doing this since.

In fact, I'm printing right now with a vat that has a fresh PDMS coating. The build table calibration worked fine here.

I tried to pull off the stuck layers with my fingernails. I got one off safely. The other, I damaged the layer; imagine how the layer would look if you'd stuck it with a needle.

Darn it!

[Robert Howle]

When u do calibration with the Nuvat make sure the build table is in contact with the suface of the glass. Prints stick to the vat when the build table was never in position for calibration, or not done properly.

When the table is all the way down, calibration is complete and the 4 screws are tightened, see if u can slide a thin piece of paper between the build table and the surface of the glass. If u can then y may need to change the "Z Home Offset" in order for the build table arm to lower far enough for correct calibration. This is prob due to the height diff in the NuVat when compared to the original vat height.

When changing the "Z Home Offset" (steps) keep in mind that 200 steps = 1mm in linear distance. In other words adding 400 steps to the setting will allow the build table to lower by 2mm more than the default setting. This is found in "Settings" > "Printer Settings".

The default for "Z Home Offset (steps)" is 10400. This default is on the v1.2 only.

The reason I mention this is because i tried calibrating a 1.2 for a client and after several tries discovered that the build table was never touching the PDMS. The client had a machine (kit) where the holes drilled in the back plate of the machine were accidentally drilled too high, so the "Z Home Offset" defaut did not allow the build table arm to lower far enough. I thought I was doing everything correctly because with the screws loose and pressing down from the top on the build table i could feel resistance. Turned out the resistance was just the bottom of the slots in the build table arm and not the PDMS. Changed the Z Home offset, and all is corrected. No floating layers and no layers stuck to PDMS. Everything was where it was supposed to be, stuck to the build table.

Robert Howle

[lobby]

Thanks, Robert. Lots of wonderful advice from you and AKgold on this.

I'm trying to contact Evert about a replacement vat. For now I'm using one of my PDMS vats, so I'm not in trouble.

[tim.yoshi]

Hey guys, how are you gluing NuVat glass in there? I tried ordinary sanitary/aquarium silicone but it won't stick to acrylic firmly.

Also tried a bunch of building glue like polymer, polyurethane and Liquid Nails Heavy Duty (biege). Only biege is working good. All others do somehow dissolve in resin. I tried it with MJR, which is more reactive than B9R, but I guess B9R will also do it with time.
Maybe this is reason of such a numbers of complaints with VAT's leakage? Also I did find that ordinary thermo glue gun glue will not dissolve nor react with resin. Also it do hold both glass and acrylic together. But here is the trick - how to glue it reliably within such a big perimeter. I.e. when you will apply it all over perimeter of the vat window it will just cool down and glue nothing.


So far I printed few times with NuVat glued to acrylic vat with Liquid Nails Heavy Duty. So far it worked nice, except hard-to-release first layers. Also I noticed on some small rings that layers wasn't in one line when cured. Another words they were like side to side slightly thus making surface kinda rough. But I guess I just need to decrease cure time.

[Robert Howle]

I am only using aluminum vats with the NuVat glass.

[3DPRINTINFO]

Hi Robert, so have you dropped using PDMS altogether now? Are you rings still coming out as good as they did with the PDMS?

Anyone out there have any accidents with glass coming off since what happened with Mike?

Thanks!

[Robert Howle]

Still using both. Just started testing. Will let u know how it goes.

Robert

[tim.yoshi]

Hi Robert, so have you dropped using PDMS altogether now? Are you rings still coming out as good as they did with the PDMS?

Anyone out there have any accidents with glass coming off since what happened with Mike?

Thanks!

Luckily so far - nope. But I'm printing so far with NuVAT ONLY in smallest setting for jewellry annd even trying not to load all all the platform. Once there was almost full one and first layers were scary hard to slide.

[Robert Howle]

Same here Tim.

Robert