big bangle thingamajoozit.

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akgold
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#21 » Fri Aug 12, 2016 12:38 pm

I get it. I forgot your still working for the big company.
Well at least your honest with your answer.
Thanks
I'm so far behind I think I'm First !!

Chris Botha
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#22 » Mon Aug 15, 2016 6:08 pm

Staff training now complete and the B9 has moved in paperwork from the design team to the manufacturing team, its first "official" print for the company below. Its interesting because it now has its own time sheet and is running proudly alongside our two Envisiontechs. The manufacturing staff keep dedicated logs of prints by volume, time, downtime, failure, service costs, consumables costs and parts. We use those sheets at year end to determine a price per part average. Not sure its ever been done for a comparison by a company that prints as much as we do (each machine runs at least twice per day, 6 days a week, often 7 days a week), but should be interesting to see B9 vs Aureus vs Perfactory results. (currently the Perfactory is king of the hill, it our performs the Aureus, and in the time of the two Solidscapes it outperformed them too)

My own observations to date is the Aureus has a much better finish in terms of part detail, and the perfactory in its 39XY position (same build size +- as B9 in 50XY) also has a slightly better finish (crisper) than the B9, but most likely due to the fact it can slice pic100 at 25um vs the 35um we running the B9 at.. I think in terms of price per part the B9 will reign kind by year end..

It is decided to leave the B9 at 50XY and feed it model that dont need super crisp detail like our bead and charm ranges for now.
Attachments
IMG_20160815_091957.jpg
IMG_20160815_091937.jpg
Matrix8.0, Rhino5, 3DCoat4, 5 Axis MinitechMinimill2, Envisiontech Perfactory, B9 1.2.
Be the Shepherd, or be the Wolf... Just never be the Sheep.

sophie
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#23 » Wed Aug 17, 2016 1:44 am

RobertW wrote:Very nice! I printed a large hinged bangle on the B9 a while back that came out great, too. Printed it at an angle, though, with much fewer and heavier supports. But the end result is the important thing, so if you can remove all those supports without damaging the model it will be a total success!

I'll share a little of my experience FWIW...For difficult support removal I like to use a pointed krause bur. When a lot of supports are fused together making heavy wall-like or thick rod-like structures, I've found it safer to first cut through the support structures about 5mm away from the model and then go back with the pointed bur and remove the remaining nubs using high speed and very little pressure. Easy does it at high rpm, not forcing the cut, keeping the bur clean. I do this after curing in water under UV for 10 minutes or less; the resin is no longer tacky but still pretty flexible. Once the supports are removed I put the models in a clear jar of water on a foil covered dish outside under the hot Phoenix sun for a couple hours and it's ready to be filed, rubber-wheeled and sprued up.
Hope that helps!
Rob


Hello RobertW,

What FWIW is abbreviated?

About "pointed krause bur", is it expensive appliance?

And, when you remove the supports, do you use special nipper at first?

It is difficult that how much diameter support do I put, and removing the supports after printing.
Usually we print with scale of 30mico x 30micro.

I face a dilemma about the support that it is hard to remove them without damage with cutter knife after printing.
However when we put the small diameter top support by software, since they couldn't support,
it dropped and we couldn't print it.

sophie

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Robert Howle
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#24 » Wed Aug 17, 2016 4:12 am

FWIW "For What It's Worth"

I use model makers snips (micro shears). They are used for cutting apart small parts that come in kit form, very fine points and cutting edge. See below. Always cut at least 1to .5mm from print if cutting after curing. Too close will leave a pit. You can always wax up the pits or fill with resin and cure.

Krauss Burs are used in a flex shaft machine. See picutures. Same cutting burs used by dentist. I don't use them to remove supports. Just wanted to answer your question.

Micro shears are (not to be used on metal) are available from Stuller and Micro Mark (market to modelers, railroaders, etc.).

Robert Howle

Krauss burs.JPG
Krauss burs.JPG (34.67 KiB) Viewed 3121 times

micro shear.JPG
micro shear.JPG (15.54 KiB) Viewed 3121 times
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sophie
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#25 » Wed Aug 17, 2016 11:22 pm

Robert,

>FWIW "For What It's Worth"
Oh,thank you so much. I didn't know it. I event couldn't reach imaging.
(I only know ...TGTF)

>I use model makers snips (micro shears). They are used for cutting apart small parts that come in kit form, very fine points and cutting edge. See below.
I see. Thank you for your advice.

>Always cut at least 1to .5mm from print if cutting after curing. Too close will leave a pit.
Ok, when I cut the support with it, not too close.

>You can always wax up the pits or fill with resin and cure.
>Krauss Burs are used in a flex shaft machine. See picutures. Same cutting burs used by dentist. I don't use them to remove supports. Just wanted to answer your question.

Thank you always.

By the way, the parallelism is important when we print isn't it.
I'm wondering if it is better to set a level gauge on the machine or not.
s.
Attachments
level gauge.jpg
level gauge.jpg (18.32 KiB) Viewed 3084 times
nippers.JPG
nippers.JPG (10.61 KiB) Viewed 3084 times

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Robert Howle
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#26 » Thu Aug 18, 2016 12:09 am

The machine being level is not as important as the build table being parallel to the PDMS (reason for build table calibration). Also important for projected image to be parallel to the build table (reason for the projector mount that sets the "pitch" of the projector). The "yaw" is controlled by rotating the machine around it's center. So important to level the projector with respect to the build table. This is kept in the correct orientation by being careful to not rotate the projector when tightening the screws after projector calibration. The calibration image and the calibration grids (orange plastic one) will show if the zoom, focus, and yaw are correct. If u can't focus the right and left end lines at the same time and/or can't get the grid image to correct size using zoom then your projector may need to have the yaw adjusted..

After the initial calibration of the build table and the projector (machine being level) I then added about 8 business cards to the front and back of the left leg to facilitate the resin flowing back over the window faster than if the machine were level. Have had my original machine and the newer v1.2 in this configuration since the beginning (2013).

After the initial leveling of the machine and all calibration the best use of the bubble level is on the window of a vat when preparing to recoat. level when coating is very important.

Robert
Dance like nobody's watching!

sophie
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#27 » Thu Aug 18, 2016 4:22 am

Robert,

You mean the build table being parallel to the PDMS is most important before I care the machine being level.

> The calibration image and the calibration grids (orange plastic one)
will show if the zoom, focus, and yaw are correct.

Yes, Technology officer of the agency showed how to forcus it.
You mean if we wouldn't be able to focused at that time, then the projector MAY need to have the yaw adjusted.

>I then added about 8 business cards to the front and back of the left leg to facilitate the resin flowing back over the window faster than if the machine were level.

It was difficult for me to understand this phrase. Pardon..
It means you incline the machine body to right side slightly with 8 cards(for each left legs?) after the initial calibration of the build table and the projector?

>the resin flowing back over the window faster
Which part of the "window" means?

Thank you always.

TGTF
s.

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Robert Howle
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#28 » Thu Aug 18, 2016 11:35 am

Window of the vat. The clear area where the image is projected.

Robert
Dance like nobody's watching!

sophie
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#29 » Thu Aug 18, 2016 7:56 pm

Thank you Robert.
I understood it’s the Window of the vat.

sophie

Chris Botha
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#30 » Fri Aug 19, 2016 12:59 am

castings getting along ok.
Attachments
IMG_20160817_103654.jpg
Matrix8.0, Rhino5, 3DCoat4, 5 Axis MinitechMinimill2, Envisiontech Perfactory, B9 1.2.
Be the Shepherd, or be the Wolf... Just never be the Sheep.

Chris Botha
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Posts: 90

Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#31 » Fri Aug 26, 2016 2:53 am

pic100 vs b9 casting. the pic100 is slightly shinier. not sure why. both cured the same way cast the same way.

built an led oven but the old reptile lamp still works better.. go figure.
Attachments
20160826_112522.jpg
20160826_112441.jpg
20160826_111036.jpg
20160826_111020.jpg
Matrix8.0, Rhino5, 3DCoat4, 5 Axis MinitechMinimill2, Envisiontech Perfactory, B9 1.2.
Be the Shepherd, or be the Wolf... Just never be the Sheep.

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Metalcaster
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#32 » Fri Aug 26, 2016 10:44 am

Whats the reptile lamp look like?
I think the lamp outputs more heat, so the combination of heat and light will cure faster.

Chris Botha
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#33 » Fri Aug 26, 2016 8:49 pm

like so.. in Thailand the lamps cost about 3 bucks and lasts 18 months or so. damn cheap. damn effective.

http://www.thatpetplace.com/repti-deep-dome-lamps

beware it does generate significant heat which doesnt seem to affect pic100 but does cause the b9resin to smoke slightly. for pic100 its 10 minutes straight up, for b9 its two batches if 5 minutes with a coffe break between. cured rock solid.
Matrix8.0, Rhino5, 3DCoat4, 5 Axis MinitechMinimill2, Envisiontech Perfactory, B9 1.2.
Be the Shepherd, or be the Wolf... Just never be the Sheep.

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akgold
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Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#34 » Fri Aug 26, 2016 9:35 pm

Chris Botha wrote:like so.. in Thailand the lamps cost about 3 bucks and lasts 18 months or so. damn cheap. damn effective.

http://www.thatpetplace.com/repti-deep-dome-lamps

beware it does generate significant heat which doesnt seem to affect pic100 but does cause the b9resin to smoke slightly. for pic100 its 10 minutes straight up, for b9 its two batches if 5 minutes with a coffe break between. cured rock solid.


Which bulb do you use in this lamp housing?
http://www.thatpetplace.com/reptile-sup ... ulbs-lamps
I'm so far behind I think I'm First !!

sophie
B9 Maker
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Posts: 48

Re: big bangle thingamajoozit.

Post#35 » Fri Mar 22, 2019 4:10 am

Chris Botha wrote:The machine still set at 50xy as have a few more of these bangles to go... So the boys been testing it for regular jewelry at that resolution. Not to shabby actually, so I got then to cast two to test if we are fluking it with the great casts on heavy parts. Appears even lightweight parts cast fine on same cycle.

Once bangles are done I'll be keen to put them on 30XY25Z instead of 50XY35Z...
Hi Chris,

It's great!!
Could you please tell me which material did you use as resin?
Because I haven't been able to print precisely with B9R-1-RED yet :?

Sincerely,
Sophie

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