Red Cherry 1:1 Mix - Test Settings

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tim.yoshi
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Red Cherry 1:1 Mix - Test Settings

Post#41 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:47 am

Quote from joyas3d on November 28, 2014, 15:04
Hi Tim. When you have some time, Could you please show us a sketch how to change the projector UV protector of the machines 1.1. My machine is requiring some time.


Ok no problem. But be careful. This method is not tested for long time. I really expect DLP chip to die much much faster. Anywhere between 100-2000 hours! Maybe less or more.
You need to replace first glass (UV filter) on the lamp assembly with regular glass. This replacement glass should have size of 23.5-24.2 mm square with 2 mm thickness. Likely it should be temperature resistant due to extreme level of heat coming from lamp. Running without glass on lamp will likely break second protective glass on projector housing very soon!
You need to replace this UV filter on front of lamp housing:
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In case you will not cover the lamp with glass this piece on projector will crack in few weeks or even days.
Also I noticed that this is unlikely UV filter as I thought earlier. It's likely just a barrier glass to prevent extra heat from going into housing
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Post#42 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 9:11 am

Tim, i think its amazing how you used the kitchen vent fan!

did you find what the cracking noise was?

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Robert Howle
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Post#43 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 11:06 am

With Tims help took mine apart. Looks like filter has fallen out of holder. will try to fix. Wearing gloves. let u knwo what happens.


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Post#44 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 11:24 am

Is this the edge of the color wheel? Trying to find how to change or get to this. removing the plate in front with one screw did nothing. This plate looks like holds filter. Was this removed by Mike at factory?

Any chance that going into the menu of the projetor to adjust color balance could help. You can turn the blue up and down like other colors. Maybe this has changed somehow?

EDIT: Did check to see if wheel turns freely. Seems to. Don't know what to check. Did check my connection of the lamp assembly and i did go in deeper in connector and heard a couple of snaps. Did notice color wheel was not completely over the opening that the light passes through. With my nitrile gloved finger I was able to slide it over the opening. Maybe it has come loose in the unit. I don't think I have the expertise to open the unit. If anyone has tried let me know. This would maybe explain the blue wave length issue. Also why my position of the hot spot seemed to change without any explanation. Setting up for new test.

Just realized. when I first started up the 1.1 after 3 months I did notice a blue outline to the projected slices. I blamed this in the Evert vat (thought it was due to the glass type and absence of PDMS). Maybe color wheel had gotten out of position and now has gotten worse. This attempt was the only one with even partial results. We shall see. Just mention I have been using B9 vat with PDMS since that first print. No blue outline on slices. I think this is a color wheel issue. Fingers crossed.

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Post#45 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 1:05 pm

That is the filter that has cracked on 4 projectors so far. I think that the larger filter in the lamp holder has to be in place to reduce the chance of this little filter cracking. If it cracks, the heat penetrates to the interior where there is a temperature safety sensor that turns on the red light of death.
When you remove the screw in your picture, the small glass filter should come with it. if it has any crack in it, it is going bad.

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Post#46 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 1:09 pm

Running test now with my original settings. Why would task bar be showing up in the projected image (back of grid, some on vat some on the black metal). Just never seen this before. This is on the 1.1 machine i am trying to get printing again.

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Post#47 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 1:49 pm

The only thing i got was two attach layers at 36 seconds. I am not printing anything that takes 40 seconds a slice. Stumped at this pt. Really glad I have the 1.2 up and printing everyday. What really gets me is there is no debis from the print in the vat. That means that when I was getting great prints at 9 sec and 1.5 sec over, now I don't even get debris. Just to mention even the attach layers i did get are thinner than usual.

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Post#48 » Fri Nov 28, 2014 11:50 pm

behold3d, thanks :) It was cheap and looked good, so I decided to go with it :) Also I do realize that I was wrong - kitchen oven is intended to be used OVER HOT surfaces with HOT AIR GOING UP. But in our case Isopropyl alcohol vapors are HEAVIER THAN AIR (to everyone's note too)! So I need to add more hoses and throw them down to the floor in order to effectively pull out iso smell our of the office. Also I suspect resin vapors to have the same properties - they should likely have more density then air also.

No I haven't still disassembled projector once again :) SO far it printed set of rings (around 28-30 mm total height with supports and base) with astonishing speed - 3.5 hours at 50xy 38z 1:1 mix. All the elements do printed. Unlike last times when thin side elements was not there. Dunno, maybe I'll print few more things and then'll look inside. Or to disassemble it now to check what is there?

Robert-Howle, that's very strange! It should be in place! At least on mine and all others on forum who disassembled lamp part of projector had it in place. Mike is not removing it from factory. Yes, there under metal frame should be small glass piece. Transparent, without UV glares as UV filter on lamp have. And it should be clean and whole. Not cracked. Double check - maybe it got cracked and fallen off somewhere? Didn't you notice any wobbling sound in projector housing somewhere if shaken?
Yes, I also noticed that ANY manipulation with lamp should likely lead to different "hot spot" position. That is reasonable - you'll unlikely to put the lamp EXACTLY to microns to the same position. And thus hot spot is moving.

Yes, color wheel is under suspect of "sudden death" effect also, but I can't imagine how it could affect. I could think only of dust. Or maybe some chemical/physical decomposition under a lot of heat/light. But that's strange - these units are designed to work under such an environment. Dunno where to search more.
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Post#49 » Sat Nov 29, 2014 3:50 am

Hi Tim,
I read online some facts about the projector... if the small glass filter on the casing becomes damaged / cracked or removed, that can let too much heat into the next chamber and that chamber has a temperature sensor that will shut down and cause red light to come on.

When you remove this filter, it speeds up the print time a lot, however, my experience is that some projectors with this removed work for a while, and then , all of a sudden, you start getting red light of death. ( i am on projector # 4 in less then 3 months).

Where is the color wheel situated? It is not a glass filter I am assuming ?
I also checked the plug on the Lamp... it seemed to not be fully snapped into place on 2 projectors .

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Post#50 » Sat Nov 29, 2014 4:33 am

My picture above shows the color wheel through the opening with the metal frame. I did not see any evidence of a lens in that opening. I will take offf again and see if there are any broken pieces anywhwere.

If I were going to order a replacement for that filter/lens what is it called?

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Post#51 » Sat Nov 29, 2014 4:44 am

Very odd, there should have been a small glass filter behind that metal clip with the round hole in it.
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Post#52 » Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:01 am

Where would I get this "glass". Still need to see if it is in the projector. There was no debris in the chamber where the lamp assembly is. I am stumped with this 40 second curing times since I let the machine sit for 3 months (v1.1 machine). Checked for dust and did not see any anywhwere.

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Post#53 » Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:09 am

I am wondering if we should do a break out thread on projector windows and mods

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Post#54 » Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:10 am

Behold, I think that would be a great idea
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Post#55 » Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:33 am

I think it is also a good idea and Roberts suggestion to find a source for the replacement glass filters as they seem to be cracking/ breaking at different time... Some of us do long builds due to the size of the parts and maybe that contributes to the life of the filters.

If I could get a couple small filters to test, I would reinstall it and see if the projector goes back to normal.

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Post#56 » Sun Nov 30, 2014 9:27 pm

Here is that thread for anybody interested ;)

http://www.b9c.com/support/?mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=2292.0
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Post#57 » Sun Nov 30, 2014 9:43 pm

this mix 1:1 setting worked with me on the rings but not on small peicecs!!
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Post#58 » Mon Dec 01, 2014 8:30 am

What machine, what settings, what resolution? You need to provide print data report. Can't help without info.
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Post#59 » Tue Dec 02, 2014 12:19 pm

TAJS, are you using Mikes test settings along with the setting you posted here on this thread?
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Post#60 » Tue Dec 02, 2014 12:28 pm

Yes, I am using the settings Mike posted here in this thread.....and the pdms still looks like new. I have, however, switched to Everts NuVat and am on my second print using these settings with a 1:1 mix.

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