My DIY B9Creator Build

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dpgoldberg
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My DIY B9Creator Build

Post#1 » Fri Jan 24, 2014 1:09 pm

Hi Everyone!

Fior some time now I have been toying with the idea of building a 3D printer. I looked into the various versions of the Rep Rap extrusion printers and while they are pretty cool, they just didn't meet my resolution needs for jewelry and highly detailed model parts. A friend told me about the B9 Creator which he owns and upon checking it out I was blown away by the resolution of the parts as well as Mike's design and build quality of the printer itself. I seriously thought about just purchasing a kit (the price is certainly reasonable) but in the end decided to build my own DIY version based on Mike's open source files. One reason was the cost savings (the total bill of materials will run around $1,500 to $1,700 of which $750 is for the projector) but also because I just love to build machines and have a full machine shop in which to do the fabrication.

The first step was to take the Parasolid files for all the parts and import them into SolidWorks, then create an assembly of the parts which allowed me to very closely inspect (virtually at least) how the machine is put together and functions. Again, my hat's off to Mike for working out a very clever design!. Here are a couple of images of the SolidWorks Model:

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/B9View1_zpsb644439a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/B9View1_zpsb644439a.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/B9View2_zpscf1125a6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/B9View2_zpscf1125a6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Then I basically took all the key components and designed a new housing around them. Some things, like the Vat and X Axis mechanism, will remain largely unchanged from Mike's design, while other systems, like the Z Axis and Projector mount/adjustment will get some fairly major revisions. This isn't a criticism of existing design, I just figured that since I had the chance, and based on some suggestions for mods that I've read in the forum, I'd take a shot at some modifications. If the work, great, if not, not big lose!

The overall framework for the machine is composed of horizontal 8020 aluminum extrusions sandwiched between two CNC precision milled MDF sides. The precision rods for the Z Axis and the projector up down adustment are held by turned collars attached to the 8020 pieces. This is a technology that has been used by John over at Microcarve.com to create his desktop CNC routers and it works extremely well, is very precise and cheap.

Here are some views of the preliminary SolidWorks model for the machine. Still a lot to work to out and add. In the end the top will be enclosed by panels with amber plexiglas for dust and light protection.

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/DGB9140123view1_zpse3c49d91.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/DGB9140123view1_zpse3c49d91.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/DGB9140123view2_zps8dd61ec0.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/DGB9140123view2_zps8dd61ec0.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/DGB9140123view5_zps08bca552.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/DGB9140123view5_zps08bca552.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

The slide for the Z Axis is composed of bronze bushings pressed in place into the ends of PVC pipes which have been reamed out to the correct size. The PVC pipes are in turn glued to a block of MDF which has two precision Vee slots milled into it. This is a system developed by Microcarve which has proven to be precise. I've increased the over length of the bearing slide to 4 inches to reduce the possibility of microscopic racking and the influence of the lead screw, in order to reduce the possibility of Z banding. The nut for the Z axis lead screw has not been worked out yet.

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/DGB9140123view3_zpsa421b6d8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/DGB9140123view3_zpsa421b6d8.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I'm beefing up the lead screw from 1/4-20 to a precision Acme 3/8-12 pitch screw. For a couple of reasons. 3/8-12 will be less likely to flex and transfer side to side force to the slide, again to reduce the chance of Z banding. Also, I have a lot of 3/8-12 acme lead screw materials left over from other projects. Waste not want not! Because the software is designed for a 20 pitch lead screw and not a 12 pitch one, instead of direct driving the screw from the end of the stepper I am adding reduction timing pulleys and belt, a 24 tooth pulley on the stepper, as 40 tooth pulley on the lead screw. This will create the proper drive ratio. An added benefit of the pulley drive is that it reduces t he transfer of vibration and deflection from the motor to the lead screw, which can sometime make it through the spider coupler.

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/DGB9140123view4_zps38026d5c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/DGB9140123view4_zps38026d5c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Another feature I'm planning to incorporate into my design is a full 3 axis slide adjustment for the projector, using the same bushing/PVC/MDF technology of the Z Axis. This should make adjusting the projector up and down for resolution a breeze, as well as moving the projected area around the build window at 50 microns a snap, prolonging the life of the PDMS coating. I don't have any views of that mechanism yet but will post some as soon as I do.

Cheers,

Dave

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Robert Howle
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Post#2 » Fri Jan 24, 2014 1:49 pm

Love to see your design for projector mod since I do everything at 50 xy.
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danmr
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Post#3 » Fri Jan 24, 2014 2:27 pm

I'm with Robert, and also mod with the pulley could be retrofitted with the current B9 Housing

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akgold
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Post#4 » Fri Jan 24, 2014 4:45 pm

Just a suggestion I found this when I was looking for the bearings on this site. It seems to me a complete double ended support system might work the best. I have no Idea of the cost but it could certainly end any wobble and all you would have to do is attach the support for the table.
There is most likely a system to attach to the projector that would be easier to adjust up and down and in and out from this company and it could add another motor to run the projector Z ,X,Y
www.smi4motion.com/smi2/atuators/supported-systems/end-supported-systems-stage3a.html
I'm so far behind I think I'm First !!

dpgoldberg
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Post#5 » Sat Jan 25, 2014 5:45 am

From Mike' model files I can determine the maximum possible adjustment up and down for the projector mount, but I'm guessing that's more than is actually needed. Can anyone out there provide me with a couple of dimensions for projector placement? In particular, when adjusted for 50 microns resolution, how far down in the mounting slots is the projector mounting plate? And when adjusted to 100 microns, how close to the bottom? In other words, how much of the slot is actually used?

Thanks
Dave

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mikej
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Post#6 » Sat Jan 25, 2014 6:59 am

There's maybe a 1/4" of "extra" slot at each end of the range.
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dpgoldberg
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Post#7 » Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:07 am

Been working on the adjustable XYZ Projector Mount, all three axises sliding on 1/2" rails and bushings with screw adjustment. I haven't got all the bugs worked out yet and it's a bit bulkier than I would like but it's getting there. Still some refining to do.

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140126view1_zpsd935ce4d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140126view1_zpsd935ce4d.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140126view2_zps081e1d9c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140126view2_zps081e1d9c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140126view3_zps3797b2b9.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140126view3_zps3797b2b9.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

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akgold
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Post#8 » Sun Jan 26, 2014 12:03 pm

This is what I have come up with as an idea to extend the projector out from it's base but it somehow needs to be omni directional or use some sort of system your showing here that allows vertical and horizontal movement in addition to the scissor type of mounting.
this one came with my Laser welder to adjust up and down for focusing a target and setting the focus of the crosshairs
Image
Image
Image
I'm so far behind I think I'm First !!

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akgold
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Post#9 » Sun Jan 26, 2014 12:09 pm

the manufacturer shows several different models Maybe one could be incorporated to be used as a mount for the projector
http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/labware/labware-products.html?TablePage=22659685
I'm so far behind I think I'm First !!

dpgoldberg
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Post#10 » Sun Jan 26, 2014 1:24 pm

One problem with scissor jack mechanisms is that they tend to be a little sloppy when put under a side load, unless very precisely machined. My goal is to be able to move the projector side to side and forward and back without having to recalibrate for each position. So far I'm not really very happy with my dwsign for the Y axis (forward and back). 2 axis are easy, adding the third is where it gets difficult. But always looking for ideas.

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Robert Howle
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Post#11 » Sun Jan 26, 2014 2:34 pm

My thoughts 2 months ago. Very rough. Slotted arms front to back and original projector plate for z movement. Maybe the lab jack scissor thing for moving the projector in the slotted arms (front to back).

Image
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Mulanzo
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Post#12 » Mon Jan 27, 2014 1:19 am

Oh boy this looks interesting. I never thought to build it DIY before. I have a friend who's dad runs a machining shop. I might be able to source some of the fabricated parts there.

Question: Mike- Are the non-machined parts particularly hard to come by? I'm a Pharmacist by trade and prospective-maker by hobby and as a DIY'er.... I'm at a moderate skill level. Would this be a challenging endeavour using just the open source documentation to acquire and build one of your printers? I sculpt 3D figures in Zbrush and wanted a great print quality with a somewhat higher build volume.

Question: dpgoldberg - What are you trying to achieve in your DIY mods? Higher build volume? Higher Build quality? Planning for future expandability / upgradability? Would you be releasing your modified B9 files for other prospective DIYers?

dpgoldberg
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Post#13 » Mon Jan 27, 2014 3:26 am

Mulazo - My main reason for going DIY was that I just love to design and build mechanical contraptions (I design animatronic figures for the Disney theme parks at my "Day Job"), a secondary benefit is the cost savings, although if I factor in my time it's no savings! Although it looks a little different, at it's core my machine is a (modified) clone of Mike's design. The operation parameters are all exactly the same so the software should run it with no modifications. The only major changes I've made to Mike's design is the drive of the Z Axis, a three way adjustable projector mount and, of course, the houseing itself.

So the build volume and print quality on my DIY machine will be exactly the same as on an off the shelf B9C. The only way to get a larger build volume or higher print quality will be to upgrade to an HD projector. I know several members on this forum are playing around with HD projectors and I look forward to seeing what they come up with. Should an HD projector prove viable at some time in the future there should be no problem retrofitting my machine to use it.

Mike can speak more on the availabilty of components but I've found the sources he lists in the BOM files to be easy to order from online, at least in the United States (McMaster doesn't ship out of the country last time I checked). The only tricky thing is finding the Vivitel D535 projector. It's been discontinued by the manufacturer and getting a little scarce. Vivitek's replacement model is slightly dimmer. But I'm sure another projector will come up that works.

If Mike has no objections, I'm happy to share my DIY files with others, but not until I've finished my machine and am sure it works.

Just a note on build volume, You can always section figures that are too large to fit in the existing volume and print them in section. Adding pins and holes into the mating surfaces will make accurate assembly easy.

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mikej
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Post#14 » Mon Jan 27, 2014 3:37 am

Just a quick note on sharing files.

The license you operate under when you create or modify our design REQUIRES that you share your work. That means cad files, drawings, source code, etc. So by all means, please share! :)

Failure to share will revoke your rights to our design and could lead to legal action (but probably only if you are selling something without permission as I'm too busy to really care otherwise at the moment).
Measure Twice, Cut Once.

dpgoldberg
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Post#15 » Mon Jan 27, 2014 3:41 am

Like I said, I'm happy to share my design files, but I want to make sure they work first! :D I wouldn't be able to build my DIY version if Mike wasn't generous enough to make it Open Source. I have no interest in selling machines, or kits, although If I come up with a viable adjustable XYZ projector mount retrofit, I might see if anyone is interested.

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Robert Howle
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Post#16 » Mon Jan 27, 2014 7:10 am

There are plenty that would be interested. Just look at the aluminum vats.

Robert
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dpgoldberg
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Post#17 » Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:02 pm

Updates to the design. I played around with all kinds of configurations for a three axis, XYZ adjustable projector mount. Although it is certainly possible, it was turning into a bigger hassle than it was worth, at least for now. Doing two axis was pretty easy, it was adding the third where things got clunky. And it was delaying finishing up the rest of the design so I could get started fabricating. So for now I'm going with precision adjustable Z (resolution) and X (side to side) axis which at least will double the life of the Slygard coating at 50 microns. Plus I'm guessing that someone will figure out a good HD projector sooner or later (probably sooner), that in combination with Mike's new software feature that will allow repositioning the image in the build window will pretty much eliminate the need to move the projector around.

The other major revision was to eliminate the 8020 aluminum extrusions from my earlier design and go with an all MDF structural construction. Simpler to make and cheaper. I've still got a lot of little details to work out but it's coming together. I've ordered materials and components and should be able to start construction in another week or so. Here are some renderings of the design as it stands now:

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140130View1_zps1dbae5cf.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140130View1_zps1dbae5cf.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140130View2_zpsd19f7a7b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140130View2_zpsd19f7a7b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140130View3_zpsce3a2306.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140130View3_zpsce3a2306.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s157.photobucket.com/user/BungalowFilms/media/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140130View4_zps2ae8a1dd.jpg.html][IMG]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/BungalowFilms/DIY%20B9%20Creator/140130View4_zps2ae8a1dd.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

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akgold
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Post#18 » Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:52 pm

I like the door opening up instead of down.
I took my door off and tried to line up the piano hinge and the door to see if it could be re-drilled to open side ways.
another Idea could be a little over the top but opening the door from the side at the break over and hinge the top part to flip up.
Matter of fact if the door opened from just the straight part sideways and leave the top angled portion stationary might be ok too if that makes sense.
I think the reasoning behind the door opening down was so it didn't swing down on your head. something to think about if you open up instead of sideways or down you might want to put a locking mechanism on it so it won't smack you in the head. :)

Another thought is to put the door on a slid sideways probably not a good way to do it since it might allow light in.
I'm so far behind I think I'm First !!

dpgoldberg
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Post#19 » Thu Jan 30, 2014 3:00 pm

The hatch actually will swing up furthur than shown, and will have a magnetic catch to avoid head bonks! By making the door one piece instead of breaking it at the bend I get a more rigid door structure. The main reason I wanted it to open up was to make it easier to adjust the projector.

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Robert Howle
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Post#20 » Thu Jan 30, 2014 3:29 pm

Doesn't opening the door up or sideways change the center of gravity.. I always assumed the door down was for stability. Door on top might require the feet on the machine to be longer and extend to the rear for max stability. Tell me if I am thinking incorrectly here.
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