Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

A lost wax capable resin tuned for 30 - 50 micron slice thickness
bezaleel
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#1 » Thu Nov 20, 2014 6:21 am

Hello all,

I would be grateful for other folks' settings who are using Cherry with the 1.1 machine and 1.7.3 software. Specifically, I need to know what you have changed or left default for the following:

1. Material and Exposure Duration
2. Cycle Settings
3. Materials Catalog
4. Factor Tool

I print a lot of wedding jewelry halo styles with lots of small stones. I've had good success in getting good castings using the Cherry.

I'm attaching my settings that work ok but I'm not familiar with the new software enough to understand why. My PDMS only lasts for about 4 or 5 nights of printings that typically take around 10 hours. My lamp hours are at 1217.

Material Settings
ID: 3Sept-B9R-1-Cherry, Description: Hi-Res, lost wax suitable.
Calc Base: 40.127, Used Base: 40.127
Calc Over: 2.006, Used Over: 2.006
Calc Attach Layers: 2, Used Attach Layers: 2
Calc ABase: 160.508, Used ABase: 160.508
Calc AOver: 8.024, Used AOver: 8.024

Cycle Settings
Unsupported Pixel Multiplier: 0.8
Shutter Open Speed : 70
Shutter Close Speed : 60
Pre Exposure Delay (Settle) : 2.5
Post Exposure Delay (Kick) : 0.2
Post Release Delay (Breathe) : 1.5
Overlift Cutoff (mm) : 0.5
Initial Overlift (mm) : 3
Subsequent Overlift (mm) : 1
Dip (mm) : 0

Job Position
X Offset: 0
Y Offset: 0
Mirrored: false
Show Grid: true
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Robert Howle
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#2 » Thu Nov 20, 2014 6:55 am

Are u making sure to keep the alcohol and water away from the PDMS? Those long exposure times are being calculated due to the number of lamp hrs. U might do a test print by creating a duplicate of the cherry and see if lower times still give good prints. This is the only way to overide defaut settings as far as I know. Might be time for a lamp.

Mike will have to advise u on setting changes in other parameters.

Robert
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mikej
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#3 » Thu Nov 20, 2014 8:10 am

It's possible that the lamp is staying brighter than expected. You can go into Settings->Printer Settings dialog and change the Machine Specific Multiplier from 1.0 to something faster, like 0.8. That will decrease all the exposure times. But if you turn it down too low, the prints will start to fail.
Keep using the default settings for Cherry, after doing the above.
Measure Twice, Cut Once.

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Robert Howle
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#4 » Thu Nov 20, 2014 9:11 am

Don't know why I keep forgetting about the MSM. Maybe because I have not had to use it yet.

Robert
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bezaleel
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#5 » Thu Nov 20, 2014 10:17 am

Thanks guys, I'll test lowering the MSM number and see if it starts to fail. I was getting some failures at the default Cherry settings until I set the Exposure Factor to 15.00 and the DOC Rate Factor to .51456100. Seems to work.

As far as avoiding water and alcohol, I keep the Cherry in the vat and prop the vat so it pools at the non window side. Then I squeegee the window part so it's clean.

I have also had it in mind to replace the lamp as it getting a tad grey haired and wrinkled.

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Robert Howle
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#6 » Thu Nov 20, 2014 10:27 am

For me the purpose of leaving the resin in the vat is to block the moisture in the air from contacting the PDMS over the window. Just my theory. But I am getting around 100 hrs of print time doing this and using 1:1 mix (short exposures with this). I do keep the vat, when not printing in the closed position (far right).

Robert
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RobertH
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#7 » Sat Nov 22, 2014 8:33 pm

Quote from Robert Howle on November 20, 2014, 17:27
For me the purpose of leaving the resin in the vat is to block the moisture in the air from contacting the PDMS over the window. Just my theory. But I am getting around 100 hrs of print time doing this and using 1:1 mix (short exposures with this). I do keep the vat, when not printing in the closed position (far right).

Robert


Why do you keep it on closed position? Do you leave the resin in the vat but tilt it so it's off the window? If not what is the purpose of closed side if the resin is covering the whole vat? I keep it inside with no tilting by the way.

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Robert Howle
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#8 » Sun Nov 23, 2014 2:31 pm

IN the open position you could get reflected light hitting the window therefore the resin. In the closed position the solid end of the vat is over the opening in the floor of the machine. I have never bothered to tilt the vat between prints, I want the PDMS covered with resin at all times.

Robert Howle
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RobertH
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#9 » Sun Nov 23, 2014 2:34 pm

Perfect idea as that glass is clear.

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Robert Howle
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#10 » Sun Nov 23, 2014 2:55 pm

There if "Method" to my madness, believe me. Whether it is justified of provable I really can't say, sometimes.

Robert Howle (Self proclaimed/titled, "PDMS fogging Theorist")
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RobertH
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#11 » Sun Nov 23, 2014 7:41 pm

Experience matters so much with this, by the way I noticed today when the unit turns off it is off to the right, which I never touched before, so I took full benefit of it, even without realizing it :)

bezaleel
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#12 » Mon Nov 24, 2014 4:12 am

Tilting helps me monitor the rate of fogging going on after each print. I also become aware of fogging by noticing a degradation in the quality of the print detail but I like to inspect the pdms directly too.

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RobertH
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#13 » Mon Nov 24, 2014 5:54 am

Quote from bezaleel on November 24, 2014, 11:12
Tilting helps me monitor the rate of fogging going on after each print. I also become aware of fogging by noticing a degradation in the quality of the print detail but I like to inspect the pdms directly too.




Don't you take off and remove the resin for cleaning and filtering? I know its harder to see the clouding when you move the resin around inside the vat, but when I empty to filter, and while i mix it, it gets a bit dry and noticeable. Dont think its a good idea just see the progress of clouding. I did 50xy 30z 60 hours before needed to change pdms (first time) and I accidently washed it twice with water only, until I came here and found out that its just bad.

bezaleel
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#14 » Mon Nov 24, 2014 8:02 am

I filter my resin once per week at the same time I replace the pdms. I don't notice that it gets dry. I print 5 nights per week. It does need to be stirred well in the vat before each printing. I believe this process works without any bad effects on the resin or pdms.

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Robert Howle
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#15 » Mon Nov 24, 2014 10:30 am

I check the PDMS for clouding when I stir before printing. I use a credit card and sweep the PDMS. I just don't like leaving it exposed to the atmoshpere. My theory is that moisture contributes to fogging.

Robert Howle
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bezaleel
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#16 » Mon Nov 24, 2014 10:54 am

Yes, I can see the dislike of exposure to moisture. What can I look for that would signal exposure to moisture problem?

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Robert Howle
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#17 » Mon Nov 24, 2014 11:18 am

It is just my opion that the resin embeded in the surface of the PDMS (you can't see it because it is not pigmented, resin base only) reacts with any water whether it be from washing the vat or water vapor in the atmosphere. I do not wash the PDMS nor let the atmosphere come into contact (except when sweeper exposes it). I have been getting about 100 hrs per coating on my v1.2 machine with 1:1 mix at 30 xy and 30 z.

Robert Howle
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Cherry Settings for 1.1machine and 1.7.3 software

Post#18 » Mon Nov 24, 2014 12:44 pm

http://www.b9c.com/support/?mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=2090.1
I still think heat is the main cause. I also think you will get more heat with cherry than 1:1 mix.

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