Well I'm pretty sure that this UV filter was filtering not only UV but also some blue. It has very light tint of yellowish which indicates it is filtering blue part of spectrum. So I managed to print few more "hot spot" calibration sets (small pillars) with vent hose attached to projector just under...

Ok, so did it (removed big UV filter form lamp) yesterday and tried to print with insanely lowered cure time. Guess what? It worked! Last times it was about 25-27 seconds to cure 1:1 mix and still results were not good. Now I printed very successful at... 3 seconds. I even tend to think that was ove...

Well there are a lot of suppliers of resin outa there.
For example MakerJuice, FunToDo, Solarez, Spot-A materials, MadeSolid. Google and you'll find them ;)
B9Creator proven to work with all of them!

Happy holidays guys :)

Quote from Metalcaster on November 26, 2014, 14:44 Hi Tim, I am having the same problems with my 1.1 machine... all of a sudden bad builds. I will order the kit you specified ... looks like a good idea. The machine does work with other material like MS material, but does not work well with B9 Cherr...

Decreasing/increasing distance to projector should quadruple/divide by 4 light output, as we all know here, right? :)

Will be interesting to know how much PDMS absorbs. Bu the way how do you measure it? What spectra are used?

Have you tried how much actual VAT with glass and PDMS (typical print setup for v1.2) absorbs?
Or even how much PDMS alone absorbs?

Ah I see. So you removed the UV filter. I now recall our talk about it. Can you provide the details? You removed only first filter which is on lamp housing? Have you placed something in place of it? Ordinary glass or nothing? How about PDMS? Have you noticed some different behavior? How long you alr...

So basically it's an FDM printer like prusa, mendel, ultimaker and others?

YES! This is it! Why it happens? My only suggestion as of now is a dust. I just can't see any other explanation to it! Try to print with it with significantly increased cure times. It should print, but model still will be kind of bad. Specially to test output of projector we need a spectrometer (spe...

Why so low cure time? Is it cherry?

Impressive. There was no wobbling to a part?

Hmm, I usually fix such a problems with old good cyanoacrylate ;)))

Hmm, I usually fix such a problems with old good cyanoacrylate ;)))

Dunno about mylar but teflon for sure must scatter light. At least a little. But all that should finally affect quality. So surface must be clean and truly clear... as glass.. Maybe ordinary glass?

Yes, that's on v1.1. I have not printed with red a long ago... But, hey no, I recall I tried test print sliced at 30-40 micron, with stock Cherry settings with Red resin. It was very weak, some parts not printed and so on. Never printed with stock Cherry. Multiplier is as it should be - 1.0. Both MS...

Hmmm.. Last time I used this mix (1:1) I had waaay bigger numbers. What can be wrong? Something with projector? But I changed lamp few month ago. Still some 200+ hours on it. I now see on forum that you guys really having low cure times and printing fine. I can't do nothing with cure times less than...

Check how Z-axis is going without nut on the "arm". You can easily do it just unscrewing two top screws on the arm and removing the delrin nut assembly. Nut itself should be downed to the bottom so that it would not prevent you from goin top down with arm.

Well one could just cook it in the ordinary pan Boil it for 20 minutes like some pasta or seafood and you're done! :)

Nice thing to try ;)

Thanks Mike. You did it for all of us. That's what I was afraid of. :( Sad that it will not work on large cross section items, but at least it will help with very tall items. That's still half-win :) Also if jewelers will be able to print some of their items without changing PDMS at all makes it 3/4...