Oh wow! What a names! Awesome work!

Bravo! Awesome work, especially photos are just awesome!

What are your post-printing procedures now?

Congrats on that Dennis! That confirms the theory that B9R resins kinda do not expire. Regarding PDMS fogging - in general, the lesser details are on print, the less you should worry about PDMS cloudiness. The more intricate, small, sharp and detailed it is expected to be - the more you should keep ...

What xy and Z? The more an object tapers in the z direction the more "stepping" will be seen. Remember u are stacking layers. Larger changes in the size of the "footprint" of the next layer will show layering more in the case of your tapered cylinder. Thinner layers help but wil...

Congrats! That's really cool and emotional!

I'm curing all my casting models only in mineral (baby) oil instead of water. Moreover - I heat dry models before placing them in oil. The theory behind it - water should evaporate and oil kind of seal model from the environmental humidity and other deadly VOC's floating around up to the moment of c...

Hello fellow B9ers! Dennis Harroun here. Its been an awfully long time and Im excited to be here again. Life and the amazing things it entails took my interests and time away from utilizing my B9 but I'm glad to be back and would like to get back up to speed using my new AND old B9. I guess this is...

And here goes my another 5 cents :) To compliment all above stated - you can place as many supports as you want and then choose all of the simultaneously either by holding CTRL button on the keyboard or in support list and apply desired settings/parameters to all of the supports. P.S. Hello akgold :)

My 5 cents - try something simpler to print, increase supports size, increase MSM to 2.5, slice 25-30 micron, double check focus on projector. Hope this helps.

B9 Model Cure is great. Curing most prints in 2 to 3 minutes. Unit is $495.00 US. Printing with Emerald green and yellow resin. Both fast printing and no solid pigments. Easiest to cast of all the B9 resins. No settleing of pigment, only some stratification, if sits for a few hrs. Robert Howle Glad...

I just printed and installed Tim's sweeper mod. I stretched the springs a little and I'm running it right now with the brackets in their normal position. The sweeper is at the top of the slot and it rocks a little when the vat changes direction but it hasn't popped off the bracket (yet). However, i...

Hello, it's been awhile sine my last visit. Unfortunately, I had some major factors to solve and quite tight time budget mostly setting up business issues and other things. So, what's up guys? What interesting have you discovered in my absence? :) What are the current trends? Most of all I'm interes...

Well maybe a dumb question, but why we should do PDMS in the way it is? Does anybody tried to coat/test/print on PDMS way thicker than usual, or maybe thinner? Maybe thick PDMS will allow for a prolonged life due to more oxygen "reserve"? This question is firstly to Mike. I guess you teste...

Ok, cool idea.
But how about temperature? With once again plastic VAT there will be no way to cure it in the oven in minutes.
I was just about to order/make metal VAT and it all changes just around my nose. I'm behind the times

try to play with balance. This should help a little. There is a lot of threads over there about it.
Also if you do want to boost dramatically - then you can take out UV filter from lamp. Do it on your own risk. This could boost 2-5 times and once again - there is few threads about it.

I proposed that time ago but
a) hard (or very hard) to implement
b) material will hardly allow you such a difference in the slice thickness. Maybe 50-35, 45-25, but I doub't more.

Well for me it's for sure the hot spot problem. You could calibrate by either my old model made for v1.1, or original one made by Mike and in fact located in everybody's computer at "C:\Users\YOUR-USERNAME\Documents\B9Creator\Calibrations" (windows 7 My Documents folder). Or even just make...

Cool. And if you have access to metal printer you don't have to order part at all
Especially helpful if you are on some space station and the whole this station is made from McMaster parts Or even self-replicating space station, kind of von Neumann probe...

Also could it be that your Z-axis motor skips some steps. Maybe try to inspect wiring of the stepper and connector to the shield.

But maybe you just overcuring it?
Maybe lower MSM to 0.9 or even 0.8. See if it works (models came out good), then it will def lower the PDMS fogging and sticking.