It looks like their transparent window is oxygen permeable which inhibits the cure. The sylgard needs to be wiped clean every layer to absorb oxygen from the top - theirs gets oxygen through the bottom so you can print continuously without the vat slide movement. If the same sort of oxygen permeable...

They're for a Revell 1/72 "Pirate Ship" kit - since you have to build and install 18 cannons for the lower gun deck before continuing with the rest of the assembly - I figured it was easier to print them fully assembled rather than fiddling with the kit ones (my eyes and fingers aren't as good at ma...

1/72 scale 12 pound cannons - they're about 1" long http://www.b26354.co.nz/cannons.jpg printed with a 50/50 mix of B9 red and MJ sub-g with 1.75 second exposure with a 0.75 second edge overcure - MJ is very fast. I can get 6 printed at a time at 50x50micron resolution in 90 minutes. Don't tell the ...

Excellent info - I've been wanting to try black tinted spot-e for printing model tyres and tank tracks. I'll have to order some.

I think he's talking about floating the resin on a layer fo H2O2 (like the peachy printer) rather than using PDMS. Peroxide is used as an initiator for polymerisation of methacrylate resins- so that's probably going to cure the resin instantly rather than create an imiscible layer. I think distilled...

That's really cool - I think the B9 would still be more accurate - but it's really going to give the form1 a run for it's money.

I've never had a failed print with HT and really short exposures. Are you sure your b9j file is valid with no missing slices?

How are you generating your supports?

Quote from madmartian on September 15, 2013, 12:09 Well, I was able to get it to slice! It's not printable, but at least it slices. :) Have you tried slicing in netfabb and seeing if it looks OK in there? I believe you can even export the slices back to a mesh which might slice better in B9.

see if you can download this - I think anyone can download a file from dropbox.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qmdbip1mw6srcn0/xX6lroN9E3

It'll need some cleanup to be printable and the walls will need to be thickend up since everything is to scale.

Quote from rezaamir1348 on September 13, 2013, 11:12 Hi, I did assemble my B9 creator , set every things perfectly , all works good, calibration is good too and (100 microns ) . 1- I use cherry resin with normal setting ( No changes ) 80 microns and nothing was cured ??????????? ( You need to slice...

Quote from Robert Howle on September 3, 2013, 00:27
Are u casting your models.

no - that was kind of my point - I don't need castable resin so spot-HT and MJR are better alternatives for me.

from my point of view - as a modelmaker, not a jeweller, if you want "castable" use B9-red or B9-cherry. For those of us who want lightning fast prints with no shrink, no stickyness after printing, easy cleanup and no requirement to post cure - we're looking for other options. The best "resin" I've ...

Cool - glad you got B9 machine to use and 6 seconds at 100x100x100 is really fast :)

50 XY would probably need less than 1.5 seconds per layer.

The weird thing is - I just had exactly the same thing happen to my v1.1 vat - the resin that got under the PDMS seemed to stick and haze the acrylic. And I can see evidence of crazing on the edges. But my v1.0 vat, and the spare vats I've cut on my laser cutter, are all fine and have been in consta...

Either your build table isn't zeroed correctly - which should result in a lot of unattached slices floating around in the vat - or your exposure times are way too short? How are you zeroing the build table? What XY resolution and slice thickness are you printing? What resin (B9-red, B9-cherry) and w...

I use evonik acrifix 192 - it's a 1 part acrylic cement that comes in a tube. I can air dry or be accelerated with UV Quite viscous and gap filling and easy to apply straight from the tube like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYxcc8ci1Yw

And - what type of computer?? Win, OSX or Linux?

Looks like it's a common issue - googling "requested position/size for CRTC 148" shows many results related to mutiple displays and if your machine has an ATI card you need to use the catalyst control panel: http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=2012025 http://askubuntu.com/questions/151763/doubl...

Question - your picture has the x slide removed - is it installed when you're testing? If not then it won't be able to figure out where it is since the end of the slide activates the optical switch on the right side of the machine.

I can't help with the vulcanisation issue - but I can tell you that spot-HT makes extremely sharp prints with no residual stickyness after a rinse with alcohol. The cured resin is as tough any 2 part urethane resin I've used so I don't think the pressure of moulding will be an issue. What temperatur...