As for bridging, with B9 if the new layer is bigger than the previous layer it works better than the FDM printers because the new layer is supported while it cures, the FDM printers have to have something to connect to so it can bridge between two points, but if it's not like that then it can't prin...

You could also rotate the ring 90 degrees so that the supports are on a side that's easier to clean

I think you might have some trouble modifying the lens, it has to have a spacer put in so it can focus at a closer distance. You also have to consider how it can be mounted to the printer, there might be a problem getting it to fit if it's bigger than the original projector.

Wow that is small

Wow, that's very impressive. This formula+ a 1080p projector would be incredible.

I wonder how that effects the life of the PDMS or whether or how it reacts with resin. If it works better then I'd say go for it, but I don't think you can buy the activator separately.

You can try it, my guess is that since they're still square pixels it won't actually smooth it out.

It wouldn't. Since anti-aliasing uses grey it would just cause shoe parts of the print to be under-cured. They would either fully cure when you do your post-processing cure, or they would dissolve when you rinse off the print. Either way, you'd still end up with jagged edges.

They're able to maintain the viscosity while adding more pigment?

You could probably add some more pigment to get even sharper prints, since the cure time is still very fast. With the amount of pigment you've added, does it seem like it's thicker or thinner than the B9Red?

This is the upgrade parts to change a first release B9 printer to the 1.1 newest version. It includes all the upgrade parts: http://www.b9c.com/hardware-upgrades/ It was option 3 that has everything. Originally it was going to go for the printer I sold but the buyer no longer wants the upgrade parts...

The metal guide rods on the sides should be forcing it to stay straight which is why it needs to have a little wiggle room up and down the threaded rod.

Make sure the tab on the bottom of the screw isn't bent, and make sure that if the platform is at the bottom that there's no pressure in the XY directions on the screw

I think in the best situation the B9 can match or exceed the Envisiontec printer. Currently, the best you can get is the 1.1 B9 which should fix the horizontal lines from before. The new Cherry material will give you even sharper results. Compared to Form 1, the B9 can print thinner parts (the Form ...

Wow, very nice result

And I've had the issue on areas of a print like just a thin part, rather than hollow objects.

Interesting to note that it's happening with a different resin as well.

Never had a problem with bubbles, and it seems like the issue takes place later during the print when it doesn't have that issue.

That type of pattern means that it screwed up on one layer and then since the next layers didn't have anything to stick to there they built up until it filled in the hole (healing). Maybe the sweeper causes part of it

When it happens though it seems like it's a pattern. If it's truly the movement of the resin that's causing it I would kind of expect to get a wide range of results.